Whale Shark Party Anyone?
By Sharon Spence Lieb
Off Cancun Mexico, we hop into a tiny fishing boat with guides from Solo Buceo Dive Adventures. Cruising along the 420-mile Mayan Reef, we’re hoping to encounter whale sharks, the largest fish on Planet Earth.
“Ready for a whale shark party?” asks our guide, Martha Aguilar. “The ocean’s a buffet of fish eggs and plankton, their favorite food. Keep your eyes open, Amigas.”
Adventure is not a theme park; you can’t buy a ticket to fun. The placid sea churns into 25-foot waves, the sky crumples dark. For hours, we roller coast the concrete ocean. Smiles fade. I throw up last night’s dinner and this morning’s Dramamine. Why didn’t we just sleep off our margaritas and go for pancakes, like Normal Folks?
Because we’re feral. We need adventure to feel alive. That adrenaline from being afraid and uncomfortable, yet knowing something very cool is about to happen.
We’re almost there. Where is there? Our boat belches stinking gas fumes, then stops in the middle of nowhere, bobbing in a dark empty Caribbean. Seriously seasick, I pray for death.
The Big Encounter
Hanging over the side of the boat, I watch monsters of the deep rise up, surrounding our boat. These fish are 40 freakin’ feet long. Mouths the size of a dining room table. Scientists have tracked whale sharks swimming at 2300-foot depths, journeying thousands of miles around our globe. One peripatetic beast swam 8,000 miles from Mexico to the Tonga Archipelago, east of Australia. I thought I had wanderlust.
“Why are these fish here in Cancun?” I ask Martha.
“Delicious food, plus they love our warm waters. From May through September, they birth their babies, preparing for long journeys ahead. Where they’ll go next, who knows, Amiga?”
Eye to eye with a dozen of the biggest fish on Planet Earth is scary as hell. OK, I’m afraid of a monster fish swallowing me like Jonah, or knocking me unconscious with her mighty tail. Whale sharks are fish: they eat plankton, not people. But oh my god, when one swims at me open mouthed, I prepare to die: sushi in a bikini.
But ain’t I the Lucky one? I’m in the open ocean with mega magnificent 40-foot long fish. This is gobsmacking life changing.
After our uberexciting snorkel, we hurl ourselves back into our rocking boat. Bedraggled, exhausted, exhilarated. Time to go back to land and leave the whale sharks to their family time in the ocean.
Back home, my life is once again happily domestic. Shopping at the grocery store, making dinner before the news, I’m smiling with A Secret. From that once-in-a-lifetime adventure, my heart is full of whale sharks. When the biggest fish on Planet Earth leave Cancun for their global journeys, a part of me will go with them. Where they’ll go next, nobody knows. Not even me, Amiga.